bateeq Fall Winter 2018/2019 Collection Ready-to-Wear

Plaza Indonesia Fashion Week (PIFW) sees bateeq return to the annual fashion event held at one of Jakarta’s most iconic luxury
malls. CEO and Creative Director, Michelle Tjokrosaputro, presents the brand’s latest Fall Winter 2018/2019 Collection entitled ‘Kelir’.

‘Kelir’ refers to the screen used in the Javanese tradition of shadow-puppet plays: Wayang Kulit. ‘Wayang’ comes from the root ‘Ma Hyang’ – a Javanese saying for bringing oneself closer to the Supreme God. In Wayang Kulit, the audience faces a screen where the puppet dolls are controlled and performed by the artist/s on the other side. Viewers only see the silhouettes of these characters as a floodlight shines from behind. The show serves many purposes that go beyond being a mere form of art or entertainment. Puppeteers often view their performances as a medium for conveying moral messages, educating the people, and criticizing politics or society.

The show highlights two motifs: Arjuna Kenanga, and Clouds and Trees. Arjuna Kenanga stems from the Javanese ancestral traditions of the wayang character, Arjuna, and the magnolia flower. In Sanskrit, 'Arjuna' literally means to be pure in body and mind. Meanwhile, the magnolia is a symbol of expressing one's respect to his/her ancestors. Thus, Arjuna Kenanga reminds us of our ancestral heritage, which often holds much wisdom and many values. On the other hand, Clouds and Trees takes its inspiration from the mountains in wayang stories, which depict the universe and its contents - animals, forests, humans, etc. By taking these illustrations and combining them with the Mega Mendung, Kawung and Parang batik patterns, Clouds and Trees teaches humans that through imitating nature, we learn to be calm, strong and grow sustainably.

In addition, 'Kelir' can also be translated as the Javanese word for 'color'. For that reason, the clothes feature a variety of solid and vivid colors. The motifs use color blocking while still retaining dark shades to reflect the fall and winter seasons. Several pieces utilize fabrics of the same color, but with slight variations in tone. It is when one looks closely that these differences can be seen.

Aside from celebrating aspects of Indonesian’s heritage, the shadow – representing a surface, but never the full or real picture – has been a key concept in the creative process. It inspired bateeq’s designers to play with “trompe l’oeil”, as most embroideries and rubber prints mirror the color of the shell fabric. The clothes may appear simple from afar, but differences in detail, texture and volume are visible from a closer point of view. By employing the laser-cut technique, cutouts are made on the cloth to create the shadow effect. The collection also demonstrates the brand’s expertise and increasing use of more environmentally-conscious and sustainable fibers. Three types of jacquard were made from wool-cupro, cotton and polyester. Also used were tencel, cotton jersey, cotton denim, cotton twill, organza polyester, and wool tweed.

‘Kelir’ pays tribute to Wayang Kulit – for being an integral part of Indonesian art culture, but also for what the “shadow” idea within shadow-puppets truly signify: things are rarely just as they seem. It offers a range of pieces that can be worn from day to night, from casual to more formal occasions; it exhibits bateeq’s ability to keep up with trends, but also to stay true to Indonesia’s identity.
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